Metalsmith Newsletter - Unique Collets

Greetings metalsmiths,

Cut stones come in an infinite number of shapes and sizes.
Sure, the standard commercial shapes like round, square, marquise and oval are all pretty much covered in my tutorials.
Every now and then, however, and odd shape or request comes up.

For instance this 'pseudo' triangle shape that was requested of me.
It is not really a triangle, rather an exaggerated six sided stone.
In gem cutting terms it's known as a cut-corner triangle gemstone.

Nevertheless, six sided or not, it still has three 'main' claws. I divided them into two claws per point to make setting easier.

For those noticing the red stripe running through the center, of the stone this is part of a range of Laminated Cubic Zirconia's that I cut.
Basically, I laminated two or more pieces of rough cubic together and then cut them into a gemstone, just to see how the different colors would mix when they refract together.
So I cut this stone to specifically make this collet.

This collet was made without using a triangular forming tool. Rather, everything is individually soldered together, which is more challenging but very satisfying when you get it right.

The next collet/ pendant sets a simple square Ametrine stone ( a mixture of amethyst and citrine).
A cushion cut gemstone is also suited for this collet with it's orientation to be set with the prongs not on the corners, but rather on the long sides.
In the tutorial, I also added an open bail, with instructions on how to make it.

I like to challenge myself by setting tasks such as Making a Ring in One Day.
I started by making a ring from the raw gold and rough gemstone right up to completing the ring and setting the gemstones.